Misty rain drapes the towering Sitka spruce. The scent of cedar lingers in the air. Along the tide-washed shores of Haida Gwaii, ancient totems stand as quiet sentinels, whispering stories of a people who have called this land home for millennia.
For photographer and Canadian Geographic Ambassador Scott Forsyth, Haida Gwaii is more than a destination—it is a place of deep connection, cultural resilience, and natural wonder. As he prepares to return aboard Cascadia with Maple Leaf Adventures from June 7–15, 2025, Scott reflects on the significance of this unique archipelago and the privilege of witnessing its past and present through his lens.
A Land Unlike Any Other
Haida Gwaii stands apart—not just from Canada, but from the world itself. Located on the edge of the continental plate, these islands have a geological history unlike any other. Shaped by ancient volcanic activity, they contain refugia—pockets of land that escaped the massive ice sheets of the last Ice Age. As a result, Haida Gwaii is home to species found nowhere else on Earth, earning it the title Galapagos of the North.
But beyond its natural wonders, Haida Gwaii is a cultural treasure.
“The islands have been home for thousands of years to the Haida, whose elaborate culture remains a beacon to the rest of the world,” Scott shares. “Their traditions connect us to a past long forgotten in today’s urban settings.”
This cultural depth, paired with the dramatic landscapes and rich marine ecosystems, makes Haida Gwaii one of the most profound places Scott has ever explored.
Echoes of the Past in the Present
Scott first visited Haida Gwaii in 2017, and it left an imprint that never faded.
“There are many special memories from my first trip, but the strongest impression came from visiting the last traditional Haida village site, SGang Gwaay Linagaay,” he recalls. “The Haida believe in allowing their sacred sites to be reclaimed by the land from which they were created. Standing among the longhouses as they eroded into the forest, and seeing the remaining mortuary totems along the shoreline, left a lasting impact on me.”
Scott also reflects on the resilience of the Haida people. Once numbering over 20,000, their population was devastated by epidemics brought by European contact, dwindling to fewer than 600 by the early 20th century.
“During the COVID-19 pandemic, I often thought of them,” he says. “Understandably, they withdrew as much as possible from outside contact. It is a great privilege now to be able to return to their shores and experience the wonder of their culture once again.”
The Art of Seeing Haida Gwaii
For Scott, photography is not just about capturing an image—it’s about being present, immersing in a place before raising the camera.
“It’s important not to let photography distance us from the experience, especially in sacred places,” he explains. “I try to visualize where we’re going, think about techniques, and prepare my equipment, but once we’re there, I want to feel the place first. I let intuition guide my focus.”
Beyond documentation, Scott sees photography as a way to evoke emotion.
“Sometimes, an image’s power isn’t in its accuracy, but in its ability to make you feel something,” he says. “I’m excited to experiment with in-camera impressionistic photography on this trip—using slow shutter speeds, composite imagery, and creative techniques to convey the essence of Haida Gwaii in a new way.”
One image that has stayed with him is of an abandoned cedar canoe, left unfinished in the forest—a haunting reminder of the time when smallpox and measles swept through Haida villages.
“It represents both loss and resilience,” he reflects. “It’s a story frozen in time.”
A Historic Moment for Haida Gwaii
Since Scott’s last visit, Haida Gwaii has undergone a major transformation. In February 2025, the Big Tide Haida Title Lands Agreement formally recognized the Haida Nation’s title over the archipelago. The agreement, one of Prime Minister Justin Trudeau’s final acts in office, marked a significant step toward Indigenous governance and self-determination.
“Our journey will take us through the very places where this history is unfolding,” Scott notes. “With an onboard Haida Culturalist, we’ll have the privilege of hearing firsthand what this means for the Haida people.”
The signing ceremony took place in Skidegate—a stop on Cascadia’s voyage.
“It’s a rare opportunity to witness history in the making,” Scott adds.
Returning with a New Perspective
Scott’s work as an RCGS Ambassador has taken him across Canada, from the Arctic to the Atlantic. But Haida Gwaii holds a special place in his heart.
“This year, I return not just to photograph its landscapes, but to witness its cultural resilience,” he says. “My first visit was aboard the wooden Maple Leaf schooner, and this time, I look forward to experiencing the journey aboard Cascadia, a ship designed for comfort and exploration.”
What does he hope guests will take away from this journey?
“That the Haida have created something truly remarkable—a balance between culture and environment that is rare in today’s world,” he says. “If we leave with a deeper understanding of that harmony, then the trip will have been a success.”
Looking Ahead
After Haida Gwaii, Scott will turn his focus to a major project—a book on Lake O’Hara in the Canadian Rockies, set for release in spring 2026.
“Lake O’Hara is one of Canada’s most beautiful alpine regions,” he shares. “It was painted by two of the Group of Seven, Lawren Harris and J.E.H. MacDonald, and its landscape tells a geological story millions of years in the making.”
Later in the year, he’ll embark on a new adventure—traveling to the Northwest Territories to experience and photograph the Aurora Borealis from this region for the first time.
“I’ve seen the Northern Lights many times in the Arctic during my years as a marine guide and photographer for Adventure Canada,” he says. “But I’ve never been to the Northwest Territories, and this October, I’ll be an RCGS Ambassador at Blachford Lake Lodge, finally witnessing them from this incredible vantage point.”
But for now, Haida Gwaii calls once more—a place where the rainforest meets the sea, where history is carved in cedar, and where the stories of the past are still being told beneath the towering trees.
Be Part of the Journey
There’s still limited space on this extraordinary expedition to Haida Gwaii with Scott Forsyth and Maple Leaf Adventures. Experience the breathtaking landscapes, rich Haida culture, and historic moment in Indigenous governance.
The Haida Gwaii with Canadian Geographic Expedition aboard Cascadia runs from June 7–15, 2025, departing from Vancouver.
“I can’t wait to share this experience with guests aboard Cascadia—to explore Haida Gwaii’s stunning landscapes, witness its vibrant culture, and capture its timeless beauty through our lenses. This is more than a trip; it’s a journey through history, nature, and the spirit of a people who have lived in harmony with this land for millennia.” – Scott Forsyth, RCGS Fellow and Photographer-In-Residence.
About the Photography
All photographs featured in this article were captured by Scott Forsyth in Haida Gwaii for his award-winning coffee table book, The Wild Coasts of Canada, published by Rocky Mountain Books. The book showcases Canada’s stunning shorelines from coast to coast and is available here.
