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Notes From the Field: Haida Gwaii in Summer

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Where Wildlife, Living Culture & Wild Coastlines Collide

May through to July is one of the most rewarding times to explore the southern reaches of Haida Gwaii. Wildlife is abundant, seabird colonies are bustling, humpback whales return to surrounding waters, and the forests are bursting with new growth. Beyond the end of the road lies Gwaii Haanas, a protected archipelago accessible only by boat or floatplane, where ancient village sites, old-growth forests and rich marine ecosystems remain largely unchanged.

This voyage aboard Cascadia ventured deep into Gwaii Haanas, where guests experienced its remarkable wildlife alongside the living culture of the Haida Nation through visits with Haida Watchmen and culturally significant places.

Here’s Naturalist Claire Wallace’s mid-trip report:

  • June 3

    Guests arrived in Skidegate. We saw Great Blue Heron, Black Oystercatchers and Pigeon Guillemots on the pier before heading to Cascadia. After settling in on board, we departed for Thurston Bay where we anchored overnight.

  • June 4

    We landed at Tannu and Kangu in the morning to visit the large cedar tree and Tannu heritage site. We were greeted by the Watchmen at Tannu and shown around the old village site and saw two brand new Sitka black-tailed fawns with their mother next to the path. Guests also enjoyed seeing Single Delights, Club Moss and the wonderful Haida history of Tannu.

    We swapped sites and went for a nature walk at Kangu to see the old cedar tree, and saw huckleberry, lots of Sitka spruce, cedar and red-breasted sapsuckers.

    In the afternoon, we sailed to Windy Bay where we visited the ceremonial pole and Sitka spruce trail. Guests were very moved by the ceremonial pole at Windy Bay and the cultural presentation given to us by the Watchmen. We then set sail for our evening anchorage at Murchison Bay.

  • June 5

    We lifted anchor in the early morning and sailed around to the backside of Hot Springs Island, hiking across the island through the forest before soaking in the hot pools. Those guests who did not want to soak spent their free time roaming the beach, looking at bat stars and pink-tipped anemones in the intertidal zone.

    Once back on board, we started our long sail for Luxana Bay, sailing by Garcin Rocks along the way to see the Steller sea lion rookery where 12 new pups were spotted. Claire gave a presentation on Steller sea lions and then we pulled into Luxana Bay shortly before dinner, and took those interested ashore for a wander along the beach. We brought plastic bags with us and filled up five large garbage bags of marine debris during our walk.

  • June 6

    The guests enjoyed a fantastic morning rounding Cape St. James in the sunshine. All of the guests were out on the decks, where we spotted puffins, rhinoceros auklets, sea otters (with pups), multiple humpback whales and even a single black-footed albatross.

    In the afternoon, we visited S G̱ang Gwaay, and received a wonderful cultural presentation by Dee Dee while viewing the poles. Finally, we wrapped up the day walking back down the boardwalk to the beach through the beautiful skunk cabbage and salal.

Discover Haida Gwaii Beyond the Roadmap

From the wildlife-rich waters around Cape St. James to the ancient village sites of SG̱ang Gwaay, this voyage showcases why exploring Gwaii Haanas by small ship is unlike any other travel experience on the coast. Accessible only by boat or floatplane, this protected corner of Haida Gwaii rewards those who venture here with extraordinary wildlife, rich Haida culture and landscapes that feel as wild today as they have for thousands of years.

Explore our Haida Gwaii expeditions and discover the unparalleled experience of travelling through Gwaii Haanas by sea.

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