Since National Geographic put a spirit bear on its cover in 2012, it has been one of the most sought-after wildlife sightings in the Great Bear Rainforest.
But unlike the lions of the Serengeti or the penguins of Antarctica, the spirit bear is one of the rarest creatures on the planet. What should you expect from your trip, and why is the spirit bear just the tip of the iceberg?
The spirit bear is a rare white phase of the black bear—scientifically speaking, it’s caused by a double-recessive allele on one of the black bear’s genes. Seeing one is a magical moment. The rainforest is vast and inky green. The earth is brown beneath jade-coloured understory plants and grey rocks. In this world, animals like wolves, mink, seals, bears and thrushes are similarly coloured for camouflage. Seeing a cream-coloured creature emerge from the green tangle and catch the light in its fur is such a surprise.
It’s also a moment that can connect us to vast and humbling things… whether it’s the Ice Age that Tsimshian stories tell the spirit bear is a reminder of, or the way millions of salmon pulse into the forest each year to mate, die and feed the entire ecosystem, including bears.
But is spotting one essential to experiencing the Great Bear Rainforest? And what are the chances of actually seeing one, anyway?
Where do Spirit Bears Live?
Photo: Phil Stone
This spirit bear known as “Strawberry” moves silently through her moss-draped rainforest home.
Spirit bears inhabit a section of the Great Bear Rainforest, as well as parts of the interior in the Nass Valley and toward Hazelton. The largest population is in the Great Bear Rainforest, with varying distribution between mainland inlets and several large islands.
The islands’ edges are often steep rock citadels, covered in tangled forest and cut through in a few places by creeks that empty to the sea. Unlike an African safari, where you might drive across open savannah in search of wildlife, seeking out a spirit bear requires patience, local knowledge, and a bit of luck. Only a few companies operate trips in the area and their dedicated guides will work hard to get you to a place you might be able to see one.
How to Get to Spirit Bear Viewing Areas
Photo: Jeff Reynolds
Gitga’at guide Marven, whose deep knowledge of the land and its bears has guided our visitors for years.
Regardless of how you travel, reaching spirit bear territory means going by water. On our expedition cruises, your “floating lodge” moves with you, providing comfort while navigating the wild and beautiful coastline.
We get into small boats to go ashore, which is usually between a 2 and 20-minute ride, depending on how much we stop to see on the way. With just eight to a few dozen guests, we visit special viewing areas without overwhelming them.
What to Expect on a “Spirit Bear Tour”
Photo: Jeff Reynolds
The dominant spirit bear known as “Boss” (thought now to be deceased) and a black bear fish in the same creek. More submissive bears will avoid their competition for food—one reason spirit bears can be so elusive.
Recently, a traveller asked us, “When is the best time to see as many spirit bears as possible?” In this, we need to manage your expectations.
We have been operating Great Bear Rainforest trips since the early 1990s. We’re familiar with the locations the bears live and fish, the bears themselves, with the researchers who’ve studied them, with guides from Hartley Bay who regularly work with us, and we can say that if you see a single one you are a lucky person.
Your chance of viewing one changes from year to year. We are not going to lie and guarantee you will see one but you will have the very best chance possible. Some years the chance is excellent, and some it’s fair. It is based mostly on which bears are living at the time, in the few areas it is possible for guests to reach and view them.
For a while, the main bear we could visit lived on one particular island. Then he passed away and we could sometimes see one bear in a mainland inlet. After that, we spent many years in the company of two bears, known as Boss and Warrior—and sometimes another known as Ma’ah. We would randomly see others, too, but less frequently. Boss, in particular, became well-known because, as a dominant bear, he was frequently patrolling the creek we viewed him at and didn’t give quarter to any other bear.
Sadly, these three wonderful beings have died as bears live about 25 years. While we still view other spirit bears, they are more submissive and will give way on fishing creeks to other bears, many of which are black-coloured black bears. This means we may see them for less time than previous bears, sometimes not until late in the day, and sometimes not at all.
But like many quests, the journey is at least as rewarding as the destination. Here’s why.
The Land of the Spirit Bear, Beyond Just Bears
Photo: Phil Stone
Guests paddle through a glassy, sheltered bay at sunset, dwarfed by the towering peaks of the Great Bear Rainforest.
Exploring the Great Bear Rainforest is a rich sensory experience and also a deep experience for the mind. It’s one of the most intact natural areas on the planet, with many unlogged and unroaded rainforest watersheds, cold, clean water full of nutrients for abundant marine life and a diverse geography of fjords, islands and waterways.
The coastal temperate rainforest here has more biomass than even a tropical rainforest. That’s a lot of life!
You’ll have the opportunity to potentially have all of these experiences on a trip, depending on the routing:
- Watch black and grizzly bears fishing for salmon on the shoreline
- Spot a spirit bear emerging from the forest
- Witness humpback whales or orcas feasting in cold, nutrient-rich waters
- Explore the rich ocean ecosystem, from intertidal life to seabirds to marine mammals like huge sea lions
- Walk among towering cedars and spruce with naturalists, including the occasional forest bathe
- Exploring outer islands and windswept beaches lined with driftwood
- Listen for the chilling howl of the elusive coastal wolf, and perhaps see one
- Cruise through steep fjords where waterfalls spill from the mountains
- Kayak in sheltered bays
- Meet whale scientists in the field
- Soak in natural hot springs
- Learn from Indigenous guides about the culture and history of the region
- Encounter unexpected moments: an otter bobbing in the waves, a pine marten darting through the trees, an eagle diving for its catch.
The spirit bear may draw you here, but its home—the Great Bear Rainforest—promises to leave you with more than what you bargained for.
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