There’s something elemental about travelling Haida Gwaii by small ship. Out here, weather trumps schedules, and the landscape has a way of reshaping your expectations in the best possible way.
Over their first four days aboard Cascadia, our crew and guests experienced the raw beauty of Gwaii Haanas—where grey whales feed in quiet bays, ancient village sites emerge from the moss, and the line between exploration and reflection blurs.
Here’s a look at where the journey has taken us so far—shared via satellite from naturalist Ethan Browne.
May 10th: Whales and Weather
We welcomed our guests aboard around noon, and began our movements out of Bearskin Bay toward Thurston Harbour. Just north of Alliford Bay, we were treated to a spectacular encounter with four eastern Pacific grey whales actively feeding. We lingered to observe them as they worked their way through the bay—a remarkable start to the trip.
Shortly after, the weather decided to shake things up. Despite a relatively calm forecast, we encountered 45-knot winds and 1.5 to 2-metre swells. With safety and comfort in mind, we made the call to divert and anchored for the night in the sheltered waters of Cumshewa Inlet, near the historical village site of New Clew.
Photo: Jeff Reynolds
Cascadia anchored in the calm refuge of Cumshewa Inlet after a day of wind and waves. This tranquil Haida Gwaii backdrop offered the perfect contrast to the wild Pacific swell. Photo by Jeffery Reynolds.
May 11th: Village Sites and Ancient Cedars
With a fresh start and early departure at 06:00, we made our way to the historic Haida village of Tanu. Guests had the opportunity to explore both Tanu and Kunga Island—our first official cruise/landing combo of the trip. The walk on Kunga Island brought us face-to-bark with a massive western red cedar, a moment that left many in awe. A few lucky guests also spotted a peregrine falcon circling above the village site.
Later in the day, we cruised over to Windy Bay. There, guests learned about the pole and blinking house, and explored the far side of the river where an immense Sitka spruce stands sentinel. We offered kayaking in the evening for those who wanted to soak up the surroundings at water level.
Photo: Jeff Reynolds
A towering giant in the coastal rainforest—this ancient western red cedar stands wrapped in moss and mystery, offering guests a window into the deep ecology of Haida Gwaii.
May 12th: Spruce Trees, Slugs, and Hotsprings
We kicked the day off with a pre-breakfast kayak and made our way then to Anna Inlet for a walk to another massive spruce tree. This was a great opportunity to talk more about forest ecology, bryophytes, and some more unique forest critters like the Banana Slug.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Hotspring Island, where guests took part in another split cruise/landing. The Watchmen—Duck, Daylyn, and Elliot—greeted us with warmth and shared stories that brought the place to life. After soaking in the energy (and a few hot pools), we tucked in at Island Bay for the night. Another round of kayaking was offered to cap off the day.
Photo: Jeff Reynolds
A forest walk around Anna Inlet reveals towering Spruce, mossy trunks, and the small wonders of the rainforest floor.
May 13th: Intertidal Wonders and More Whales!
The morning started with another pre-breakfast kayak, where a few of the guests spotted racoons in the intertidal. Post breakfast, we repositioned slightly towards the northern entrance to Burnaby Narrows. Guests embarked on the tenders, and we took off for a great morning of intertidal interp. Jeff R donned a wetsuit and collected marine invertebrates for the guests. Some highlights found were massive purple urchins, a Giant Nudibranch, and a slime star!
Photo: Ethan Browne
Naturalist Jeff Reynolds suits up for an intertidal adventure in Burnaby Narrows, sharing close-up encounters with nudibranchs, slime stars, and the wild wonders of Haida Gwaii’s marine world.
We’re now making our way to Garcin Rocks for a sea lion haul-out viewing, with hopes of humpback sightings en route. Already today, we’ve spotted ancient murrelets and Cassin’s auklets—always a treat for birders.
More to come…
If this kind of journey speaks to you, our 2026 Haida Gwaii expeditions are now open for booking!
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